The lighthouse stands on Ynys Lawd, a small rocky island just off Holy Island. More than 400 steps cut into the cliff lead down towards it, with the same climb back up. The lighthouse was closed when I visited in September, but the stairway offered views of the granite cliffs and the Irish Sea.
The reserve is known for its seabirds, though I saw none on my visit. Their absence made me think of the wider pressures on seabirds, whose fortunes vary by species and place. Above the cliffs, Ellin’s Tower, a bright-white Victorian building, looks out towards the lighthouse.